18/09/2014

Another fishing village: Spakenburg

Holland has a lot of sea and a lot of fishing villages.
Fishing still is a florishing trade - yes, I see your raised eyebrows here - but now I'm talking the old fishing villages that are scattered all along the Dutch coast and the former Zuider- or 'Zuyder'zee.

I'm not going into deep history here, but it's nice to know a bit about this part of Holland.

So here we go.
In the early Middle Ages there was no such thing as a proper sea in the (upper) middle part of Holland.
Just a lake, bordered by peat that was quickly excavated for fuel purposes. As the peatbog settled the land lowered and a couple of fierce floods in the 1200's did the rest: in about a century the lake was now a sea, connected with the North sea and hence named Zuiderzee: Southern sea.

With it whole new vistas opened: fishing and trade (we've always been good at the latter!).
From the late Middle Ages until early last century many villages along the borders of the Zuiderzee thrived.
Trading resulted in the Hanze cities (a string of cities connected by trade) that ran from Russia via the Scandinavian countries and Germany deep into Holland - btw, that is why some of these old Hanze cities so strangely resemble cities in Northern Germany and Sweden!

But this came to an end (please note, this is a very concise history). Silt and storms ruined harbours and trade. Reclamation started as early as the 17th century, closure of the Zuiderzee was thought of at the end of the 19th century. The fishing villages of course fiercely protested, but safety and need of farmland prevailed - and in 1932 the Zuiderzee was no more, due to the Afsluitdijk (Closing Dam) that made the former sea into a (huge) lake: the IJsselmeer (meer is lake, the IJssel a river that runs into it).

On the now sweet water lake fishing started again, and with the salt water fishes vanished now mainly on eel, plus some sweet water fishes like breem and pike (to name but a few).

The fishingboats of the IJsselmeer are famous in Holland: low on the water, ruggid and beautifully carved wooden ships with brown sails, hence named the 'Bruine Vloot': the 'brown fleet'.
They can be seen in abundance in the harbour of Spakenburg, a fishing village at the southern point of the IJsselmeer.

We visited Spakenburg last week and made a couple of pictures we'd very much like to share with you.
Spakenburg also hosts a wonderful museum that shows how people used to live in the old days.
Please note: this is one of the villages where (some) people still dress in costume!
Each village had (has!) it's own distinctive costume and they're all very beautiful. That's why I've included some pictures of the costumes as well, this time only on dolls in the museum - we didn't spot them IRL.

I must admit I've included quite a lot of photos from the Spakenburg harbour: we so like the seemingly (!) disorganised air of these century old harbours.

Ah - almost forgot: while strolling along the harbour twenty of these beautiful boats left for a sailing competition. An extra bonus for us, and a couple of very Dutch pictures for you, to end my blog!


























14/09/2014

Off to Zeeland: shrimps in Breskens

We were lucky to visit two fishing villages in Zeeland - our most southwestern province - in the course of two weeks, when they held their respective, yearly festivals: Breskens, famous for its shrimps and Yerseke, immersed in mussels and oysters.

Breskens was the first.
We live close by kilometer wise - think a whopping 100 km as the crow flies - but for us it's like going abroad: after a full two hours trainride you arrive in flat, windswept and beautiful Zeeland, where you swap the train for an half hours ferry ride.
The place you arrive then feels more like Belgium than Holland - hm - must start blogging about Belgium as well so you can see the difference too ;)

Anyway, we headed for Breskens, to visit their annual Fishing Days.
Breskens is situated on the Westerschelde, part of the Schelde estuary (the Schelde is a long and wide river) flooding into the North sea.
It's the route for ships going from the North sea to the Antwerp harbour in Belgium: a tidal, salt water stretch of 'sea' cutting deep into Holland.

Breskens is into shrimps.
In the old days shrimps were shelled by the local women. Nowadays they're flown into Morocco, shelled by Moroccan women in facturies, generously chemically treated against decay and flown back again.
But for this festive occasion Breskens shows the art of old skool shelling these minute shrimps: two beautifully dressed women, in their costumes with the intricate, gold adorned caps, sat at a table and shelled at an amazing speed the tiny, delicate, supertasty Dutch shrimps.

Resulting in a considerable heap of shells, to be thrown away into the waste bin - my - this is wonderful material to make a real good fish fond - I could really do something very tasty with it - imagine, a stock of frozen shrimp fond ready for use - we appealed to the women, left a large plastic bag and came back an hour later.

Dear readers, one whole whopping kilo of fresh shrimp shells. I slightly roasted them, next they simmered for hours and hours on end, and I gathered from these fresh shells the most wonderful fond imaginable.
Our biggest treasure when we returned home.

In the meantime we were part of a great outdoor festival, with the meeting of the Fishing Queen and the Shrimps Princess as a culmination of another wonderful day. Enjoy!

























01/06/2014

Spring! Time for the famous Dutch tulips at the Koiken hoof

No, it's not pronounced Koiken hoof, nor zie Kitchen hofe. (a kitchen is a keuken in Dutch, a hof is a garden).
It's Keu-ken-hof. Ask your Dutch parents / friends how to pronounce it.

Anyway, near the Hague, up north behind the North Sea dunes is the famous Keukenhof: a park full of Dutch flowers: narcisses, hyacinths and first and foremost our famous tulips. Open two months a year and we decided to visit it on the first day of Pentecost.

For us it's reliving our very early youth. The place, and especially the amount of flowers is amazing. All the colours, it is absolutely a sight for sore eyes!

Apart from the flowers we took pictures of people who were taking pictures of each other.
Enjoy!



















Healthy springs: Germany's famous Spas.

Germany is riddled with wholesome, healthy, healing, medicinal springs. They're called 'Bad': bathes, or spas.
Whenever you go to a place with 'Bad' in it you'll be sure to see a massive,Victorian, palatial building, a true Spa Hotel, near the springs: mineral waters, sulphur, special muds, the works. These towns and villages invariably have an international, glam life feel and thus are great to stroll through and spend the night.

So check out our pics of Bad Nenndorf, in the Schaumberger Land, west of Hannover.
We stayed in the Grand Hotel Esplanade, a palace more impressive than the palace our former queen Beatrix grew up in. With, next to the immense garden, one of the strongest sulphur springs in Germany.

Now I love the smell of sulphur - memories of earlier life, and my next destiny, as my dear hubby keeps telling me. A whaft of sulphur might once in a while enter our rooms, we were forewarned in the hotel leaflet. But that was VERY healthy so no worries.

Great! love it! But then I woke up in the middle of the night, and found that every single particle of oxygen was taken up by sulphur molecules.
It was breathtaking.
It was, in fact, hardly breathable.
It smelled horrid, putrid, and very, very disgusting. No more Hell for me, thank you so very much.

We'll be back in Bad Nenndorf. When the wind is east.







29/05/2014

Das KaDeWe: the famous Kaufhaus des Westens

Das Kaufhaus des Westens. The KaDeWe.
When the Wall fell in 1989 the East Germans flocked first and foremost into this Capitalistic Phenomenon, no doubt gasping at the immense amount of things you could buy in this pestilential capitalistic system.
A must go to for droves of Dutch too. The KaDeWe is famous in this part of Europe: an immense department store, good for hours and hours on end of great and amazing shopping.

So famous that after visiting the likes of Fortnum and Mason, Liberty and Harrods in London, le Printemps and Lafayette in Paris you just have to visit KaDeWe as well, if only to tick it off.

It was Sunday. Normally they weren't open but this Sunday they were.
OMG.
Personally I'm not that much into shopping for clothes, but I was very much looking forward to the Delikatessen floor.
Die Feinschmeckeretage.
The sixth. See my pics.
If you ever come to visit us in Holland we'll take you there. Paradise (Ed: a Laduree shop-in-shop. Need I say more?)















28/05/2014

For one day: we're tourists in Berlin

Our first encounter with Berlin - see my earlier blog - was rather mixed but on the whole positive: the Alexanderplatz might have been a bit of a disaster, the barge-cum-cafe and the surrounding area (Treptow) was great.

Now that we were in the city I remembered some other must see's. We decided to go to the Brandenburger Tor by way of the well known boulevard Unter den Linden - that happened to be broken up as if they were working on a new underground line. The Brandenburger Tor is now a tourist trap, but a great one. Lots of people strolling around, lots of street artists.

On we went, to the KaDeWe, Das Kaufhaus des Westens, the biggest and most famous department store in - then - West Berlin, and the biggest department store in Europe, for that matter. See my next blog, dedicated to our fav. floor: the delicatessen!

After our visit to the KaDeWe the traffic was getting a bit hectic and we wanted a nice and quiet place to spend our last holiday evening.
So we left Berlin late afternoon and headed West, to a little town where there would be famous sulphur springs.
But that's for another blog.
Here are our first glimpses of Berlin for you!